I’ve never seen anything like St John’s Co-Cathedral. Being Maltese I might come off as biased, but I’ve seen a fair share of stunning cathedrals in Europe and, although they all have their grandeur, St John’s Co-Cathedral is on a level of its own.
How often do you come across the epitome of high Baroque architecture in Europe, with a humble and simplistic facade by Girolamo Cassar, which is then heavily contrasted with a richly ornate interior by Mattia Preti — including some of Caravaggio’s masterpieces? The other popular cathedrals I’ve come across in Europe tend to have a rich exterior (the Duomo di Milano, Sagrada Familia, Notre Dame) that is enough to convey their majesticness. Not St John’s Co-Cathedral. To me, this gives it even more value — only those who are curious and walk in can truly experience its magnificence.
What’s inside?
As you step in, you’ll realise the marble floor beneath you is covered with tombs in which about 400 Knights and officers of the Order of St John lie. You look around and the intricately carved Maltese limestone walls — undertaken in-place — will captivate you. You look up and admire the vaulted ceiling with paintings by Mattia Preti, whose use of shadows makes his subjects appear like 3D statues.
As you walk the sides of the cathedral, you’ll come across nine gorgeous chapels (one per patron saint of each of the Order’s eight langues, and the ninth dedicated to Our Lady of Philermos). Close to the altar, stairs lead to a crypt housing the tombs of Grand Masters. Behind the altar is a realistic marble statue of Christ’s baptism. Finally, The Beheading of Saint John the Baptist (1608), one of Caravaggio’s most famous masterpieces, stands in a room for viewing.
As a local, I have really fond memories at St John’s Co-Cathedral — Sunday mass as a child, getting lost in the ceiling’s details and the angels’ expressions in the columns, or listening to the national orchestra’s music complementing the cathedral.
When my Dutch partner suggested revisiting Valletta as tourists, I jumped at the chance. I took a few shots of what was then next year’s European Capital of Culture 2018, but my priority was to capture the details that have for so many years fascinated me at St John’s Co-Cathedral. I hope these images encourage you to visit — if you haven’t done so already!